Amalfi and Atrani

On our last full day in the Amalfi Coast we ventured on a day trip to the towns of Amalfi and Atrani. While we could have taken another ferry from Positano we decided to travel by bus, another must do experience in the region. There is a network of intercity travel along the coast which makes it easy to get around without a car, provided you are prepared for the trip. Bus drivers in Southern Italy are built differently and are equipped with nerves of steel. If you are scared of heights, take the ferry.

Bus tickets are cheap and can be purchased in a tabaccerie or tobacco shop, which are basically corner stores. There was a long line of people waiting to pay for various items which left us running to make it to our stop in time, or waiting another hour. We just made it, jumping on the bus and settling in to enjoy the 45 minute ride in one of the world's natural roller coasters.

In Amalfi, I asked Pablo if he'd mind walking to the next town over, a small village called Atrani, where I had stayed 25 years earlier. We set out on the crazy coastal road that winds out of town and around to the left. There is an almost non-existent shoulder. Cars (and buses) whizzed by causing me to yip and yelp. I remembered being in my twenties hauling my big backpack walking to this unknown town in search of cheaper accommodation. Every dollar counted.

At the point where the road turns there is a small hotel built in a tower with the most unbelievable view. We had stopped in, at sunset, back in the 90s where the local bartender gave us limoncello, on the house, which we sipped slowly as the sky exploded with colour across the expansive sea. To quote the kids today, it was a vibe. The hotel didn't seem to be open, but I noted with approval they had put in a spectacular pool half way down the cliff since then, which invites one daydream.

From there, is a spot where one can step off the roadway and onto a pedestrian walkway, with we took with a sigh of relief. (Note that after we returned home I realized while browsing online that there is actually a pedestrian walkway through the mountainside avoiding the need to walk that road. How had I missed that fact, twice!)

Atrani came into view looking like a snack. A long stretch of impressive stone arches lead to the town beach. And in behind the town, the mountains. We walked down and entered the central piazza. It looked exactly the same, I mean of course it did, it dates back to the 10th century! It's flanked with pastel hued buildings, and plenty of whitewash. For a moment I was 22 all over again. Within minutes I knew where I wanted to go following the roadway to the left of the square. After a short walk, my old hostel from 1996 appeared. While dolled up with a fresh coat of paint, there it stood, 25 years later, as though no time had passed.

Back in the main square I noted a couple of shops, with goods priced in lira. My mind did a 'what now'? As I tried to process why there would be plaques written in lira on the various fruits and vegetables I turned around noted a gentlemen wearing a lanyard. He piped up with a smile that they were getting ready to film a movie. It was a period piece. My mind relaxed and I smiled. And then I noticed all the camera equipment off to the side.

As such there was only one cafe in town that was open to the public. We darted in for a much needed mid-morning pick me up. The space was dark and cozy - an old wooden bar and a couple of bistro tables. As we sipped coffee, we could hear a variety of bells and sounds emanating from within. But these weren't church bells one would imagine in Italy; they were the bells from ... a Las Vegas casino? We noted a single door in the cafe covered with a curtain and poked our head around the corner. Sure enough there were a handful of slot machines straight from Sin City. I'm not often surprised but I was certainly not expecting that. My eyes met Pablo's with a smile and a wink. This is what I love about travel.

Found my old hostel ... 25 years later.

A hotel with a view ... and quite the pool.

After exploring the town, we meandered back to Amalfi lingering to enjoy the view of Amalfi from Atrani. It is a spectacular vista of the rugged coastline. Stepping into Amalfi we enjoyed lunch at the best spot in town sitting in the square overlooking the cathedral and next the fountain of a voluptuous topless woman with water casually pouring out of her perfectly shaped breasts.

As for the afternoon we toured the beautiful Amalfi cathedral. It has been added to since

the 9th and 10th centuries with Arab-Norman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. In 1861 part of the facade collapsed the front of the church which was rebuilt, drawing on Gothic and Arab-Norman styles. This was finished in 1891 with the impressive marble and stone staircase, with 62 steps, leading up to the front door and a hidden garden. Beyond that we shopped the main drag, the Ruga Nova Mercatorum, buying handmade paper and ceramics, strolled with gelato, and took pictures of architecture, old fiats and vespas, and enormous bunches of vibrant dried chiles. On a perfect Italian day there is nothing but time.

The town of Ravello high up the mountain, known for dramatic sea views and historic villas, escaped me once again. Amalfi Coast, I will have to return.

the Amalfi cathedral

the Amalfi fountain