Old Quebec
- chebelladonna
- Feb 6, 2025
- 3 min read
Updated: Mar 1
As old man winter wears on, it reminds me of one of my favourite places, Quebec City.
My favourite way to arrive in the city is to ride the rails. In our case, we travel to Montreal, changing trains, to connect to Quebec City. The journey takes a day. This is slow travel. Stepping off the train in Montreal you feel the change; there is a different vibe to Ontario, a feeling that runs deeper than simply arriving in a French speaking province.
After a quick lunch we boarded the second train to Quebec City. On our first visit I was delighted to see that we boarded one of the old trains I remembered as a kid. The low-riding, bucket seats suck you in, surrendering to the journey. The farther east we rambled down the line, the higher the snow drifts grew; the more wintery it became. Both times we made the journey it was late March/early April, just as winter is showing signs of starting to break in Eastern Ontario, yet it remains steadfast in rural Quebec.
We pulled into the Quebec City train station, hopping into a taxi to our small hotel in the old city - the Hotel Manoir D'Auteuil, an old house turned inn, dramatically decorated in art deco. Our room at the top of the house was well-appointed, small and romantic, with angled ceilings to match the roof line - a perfect place for a city getaway.
Having spent the day on the train it was time to get out and stretch our legs. Quebec City is hilly and can be treacherous in the winter. Take good boots, with sturdy tread and warm clothes! And then get lost in the streets of the old city.
The centre of the action is the Chateau Frontenac, surrounding Dufferin Terrace and views of the St. Lawrence River. The Chateau opened in 1893, built by the Canadian Pacific Railway was designated a National Historic Site of Canada. It's a castle on the hill, and it stuns. Each evening we found ourselves cheekily strolling back through the lobby for a night cap at the Bar 1608. With windows overlooking the river, the room is bathed in rich, dark woods, gold accents, roaring fireplaces and a commanding circular bar at the centre of it all. It's the perfect place to end the day.
From the Dufferin Terrace one can grab a ride on the funicular down to the river level. This area is known as the Petit Champlain. Full of shops and restaurants I imagine the area would be bustling in the summer, when the cruise ships come into port. In later winter/early spring it's quiet and romantic. The old river stone buildings with their bright red roofs are highlighted against the white snow banks.
One of the upsides to walking a lot in Quebec City is to be able to enjoy the cuisine. It's hearty fare and well-suited to long cold winters. Bring your stretchy pants. We tucked into tortiere, pea soup, smoked meat, poutine (of course), and wonderful desserts including maple fondue, crepes, pastries and tarte au sucre. My recommendation is to discover places along the way, don't overbook. There are many delightful little restaurants tucked throughout the old city. We did enjoy Restaurant La Buche, a Quebec cuisine restaurant.
Other places to explore on a journey to Quebec City include:
La Citadelle de Quebec and the city walls or ramparts - a commanding British fortress which dates back to the 17th century and a UNESCO world heritage site https://www.lacitadelle.qc.ca/fr/
The Montmorency Falls are only 15 minutes from Quebec City. The falls are higher than Niagara Falls and spectacular in both summer and winter. https://www.quebec-cite.com/en/businesses/parc-de-la-chute-montmorency
For the brave there is the Hotel de Glace (or Ice Hotel) when you can sleep on ice beds. Good luck! https://www.valcartier.com/en/lodging/hotel-de-glace-ice-hotel/
Exploring Huron-Wendat tradition in Wendake https://tourismewendake.ca/en/
And plenty of hiking opportunities https://www.quebec-cite.com/en/what-to-do-quebec-city/hiking
Quebec City is the ultimate Canadiana destination draped in red roofs, white snow, maple syrup, poutine, buffalo check, roaring fires, hockey and snowshoes. While the energy is perfectly suited to the cold, dark winter, Quebec City is also a beautiful summer destination, infinitely walkable and full of bright flowers. When I was a middle school student we took a school trip to Quebec City. I carry wildly fun memories of that trip. We also arrived by train and ran through the streets with abandon, feeling so grown up. Our finale was to roll (literally) down the Plains of Abraham. Oh to be fourteen. I will never forget that I was wearing white pants, regretting my decision instantly. Ouff!
