The Barrios of Buenos Aires - Recoleta
- chebelladonna
- Dec 31, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Mar 1
Buenos Aries, like New York or London or Paris, is endless, a collection of neighbourhoods strung together.
And while I love to wander in various parts of the city, my heart will always belong to Recoleta, where I lived during my first two years in Argentina. I will forever remember those years, endlessly pushing a stroller, with two babies, in a time before Smart phones, and using travel guide maps to orient myself.
While Recoleta was founded in the 18th century, it blossomed in the late 1800s when wealthy residents escaped a yellow fever outbreak in lower lying parts of the city. As a result the neighbourhood is full of fading French architecture. Someone once told me that not only were the buildings designed by French architects in the Belle Epoque era, but even the stone was shipped from France for construction. I don't know if that part is true or not. It's a wild concept.
The heart of Recoleta centres around its famous cemetery, the surrounding Plaza Francia and area, including the church of the Basilica de Nuestra Senora Del Pilar, and an enormous rubber tree that I swear you can almost watch grow. I have been an admirer of this tree since 2005. It now requires multiple supports to hold up its utterly enormous branches.
This is a great area to stroll around. On weekends, and holidays, they host an outdoor craft market which is fun to walk around. There used to be a design centre at the far end that was full of beautiful things and lovely restaurants. It has been closed which is a pity. I used to take the kids there often as it was a safe place for them to be able to run around.
The cemetery is unique. There is an old joke that says it costs more to live in Recoleta in death than in life - maybe so. The structures or tombs are built like homes ranging from the modern to the decrepit. Many are incredibly ornate. The most famous resident is Evita Peron, (Don't cry for me Argentina) the wife of former president Juan Peron. Eva Peron, a former actress, became a champion of philanthropy for Argentina as the First Lady. She was a poverty advocate and worked tirelessly through her foundation building hospitals, schools and homes for those in need. She died prematurely of cervical cancer in her early 30s and is a beloved figure to this day in the country.
My other favourite spot in the cemetery is a statue of a beautiful, young women who passed away prematurely, and her dog. She always struck my eye. Her name was Liliana Crociati de Szaszak. Her dog was added by her side to keep her company after his death, which is doubly heartbreaking. He has become a symbol of good luck. People rub his nose which you can see is notably worn.
Truth be told, the cemetery has seen better days. It's still worth a visit, but it has faded over the years. As strange as it sounds, I used to go often, to stroll around. It was a peaceful place to reflect, full of meandering paths and mature trees. This time I noted a lot more broken windows and a general decay. I did some research and found out that someone exploded a pipe bomb in 2018, which is a shame. They also started to spade and neuter the many cats who frequented the cemetery. There used to be cats all over, which somehow tied the whole essence together, these feline caretakers of the beyond. They were well fed and lazed about, but I agree that it was right thing to do. At any rate, the cats and the warmth they brought, are gone.
From this hub, one can walk the pedestrian bridge over Avenida Libertador to see the Law Faculty, an impressive building as well as the Fine Arts museum and the Flor Generica, a huge metal flower whose petals open and close with the sun. I feel like it has often been broken over the years, but it appears to be working again. Walking up Liberator will take you to Palermo, the next barrio, which is huge and contains several mini-barrios.
Two of the most famous streets in Recoleta include Santa Fe Avenue which is a bustling high street filled with shops and restaurants. This is where you will find the El Ateneo bookstore which is built inside of an old theatre - it's spectacular.
And then there is Avenida Alvear and the surrounding streets. This is where the prettiest architecture is. The streets are set on wide sidewalks, with mature trees and overflowing flower stands. It's gorgeous. There are a plethora of beautiful coffee shops to choose from. Buenos Aires is your town if you love coffee culture.
There are a couple of beautiful hotels in this area as well including The Four Seasons, The Alvear Palace and the Palacio Duhau Hyatt. The Alvear Palace hosts the best afternoon high tea I've ever been to. My oldest kiddo and I used to go twice a year at the end of each school term. It was something we always looked forward to. As for the Palacio Duhau they have the best courtyard/garden in the city. It's massive and beyond comprehension that it lies in the middle of a major city centre. I can't think of a better spot to have a cold glass of Prosecco and some nibbles.
A few other highlights of the area include the following:
the Patio Bullrich shopping mall, with its neoclassical architecture. This was a former auction house including for cattle and racehorses. You can find both here (and on Santa Fe Avenue) a lot of local fashion brands. The clothes in Argentina aren't cheap but they are beautiful, stylish and well made. A large portion of the population are Italian descendants and their sense of style translates. I am still wearing pieces I bought 15-20 years ago. Leather goods and children's fashion are particularly wonderful.
Tealosophy - a tea shop, which sells loose leaf tea used to be housed in the Alvear Palace. It is now a small shop on residential street. She sells the most unbelievable teas, and blends of teas from all over the world.
El Viejo Oso - a local chocolate shop. The chocolates are made in the small town of La Lucila where we used to live in the later years. It's impeccable. At Easter they create, hand painted chocolate bunnies, using tinted white chocolate over the milk or dark chocolate base. Of course they are wonderful treats year round, and it's always worth stopping in.
Coffee Shops - to name a few La Biela, Josephina's, Nucha, La Fleur de Sarti, Mooi Recoleta and Francecso capture both the classic and the contemporary. Coffee and desserts are excellent and plentiful in Buenos Aires.
Dos Escudos is my favourite bakery for both sweet and savoury. They make the best finger sandwiches called sandwiches de miga and their alfajores, a local cookie, are to die for. These are shortbread cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche and sprinkled with icing sugar. The cakes and the medialunas, Argentina's cousin to the croissant are also great. Everything is delicious.
Freddo is a staple heladeria (ice cream shop), but there are many others. Like coffee shops, you will trip over them. I've said it before and I'll say it again Argentina has, in my opinion, the best ice cream in the world, including Italy.
